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SpotCheck | Ski towns in Styria

Worthwhile destinations in the land behind the 7 mountains

by Helmut Gassler 03/25/2023
From the perspective of skiers in Germany or Switzerland, Styria is hidden somewhere in the east of the Alps. Away from mass tourism, small Styrian valley villages offer a paradise for ski in/ski out tours with cosy accommodation. From easy beginner tours to steep gullies, there are exciting options for everyone. A big recommendation!

The Dachstein (2994m), the highest mountain in Styria, which of course also features in the national anthem, and its Styrian valley resorts of Ramsau and Schladming are known far beyond the country's borders. The Tauplitz can not only proudly claim to be one of the most traditional, larger ski resorts in Austria, but also enjoys a certain degree of fame outside of Austria.

But then the non-tourist fog begins to envelop the land and the mountains and, at least from a distance, it seems to be a "ski desert". This is not quite the case. On the contrary, Styria is a cradle of alpine skiing - at least in the Austrian Alps. Towards the end of the 19th century, it was two Styrians, the Graz factory director Max Kleinoschegg and the hotelier Toni Schruf from Mürzzuschlag, who climbed a "real" alpine mountain, the Stuhleck at 1782 metres, on skis for the first time in 1892. Consequently, Austria's first "sophisticated" ski centre developed in the immediate vicinity, the resort town of Semmering, which in the early 20th century attracted the rich and famous of the Austro-Hungarian Empire to Austria in winter. Monarchs also travelled to the mountains in winter.

It was only natural that skiing in Styria quickly spread from this centre of innovation to other mountain ranges. Even high alpine, at first glance forbidding mountain massifs such as the Hochschwab (2277m) soon became popular destinations for early ski mountaineers. The good transport connections of the main Styrian valleys with their urban centres, which had early railway connections due to their industrialisation, were the natural hot spots of this development.

But this time we want to say goodbye to the eastern edge of the Alps and turn our attention to the "real" mountain groups in the Central Alps. The two ancient towns of Rottenmann (681m) and Trieben (708m) are located in the so-called Palten-Liesing valley, which are only about 15 kilometres apart but each have their own ski touring areas in their hinterland.

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Rottenmann

With just over 5,000 inhabitants, Rottenmann is definitely a small town, but at least it has its own provincial hospital, a large industrial company (which is even a world market leader in some niches) and a railway station that boasts what feels like the longest platform in the world. The historic town - first mentioned around 947 - also boasts a charming, historic old town with interesting building ensembles and the nearby Strechau Castle, which is the second largest castle in Styria. However, the town centre of Rottenmann, as a former economic and social centre, is also suffering from the widespread phenomenon that there are now car-friendly commercial and shopping zones on the outskirts of the town. Nevertheless, Rottenmann has an excellent butcher, a bakery and a great patisserie with very tasty treats, good coffee and small snacks.

But we are more interested in other values and features. This small town has something remarkable to offer. At first it seems unimaginable when you get off at the railway station, for example, or stand in the middle of the town square and look up at the heavily wooded mountain slopes. But Rottenmann actually offers ski in/ski out opportunities! Especially if you have chosen the right accommodation. The small inn "Zum Stadtwald" for example, is located right at the start and end point of some of Rottenmann's best tours. During our stay at the beginning of March last year (2022), we only had to unbuckle our skis at the hotel's own car park.

From here, the mountains Hochhaide (2363m) and Stein am Mandl (2043m) around the Rottenmanner Hütte (1649m), which is not open in winter, are possible as extended day tours. The Hochhaide is one of Styria's great ski classics, which was described by Viennese mountaineering legend Hans Schwanda in his ski book "Skiglück vom Wienerwald bis zum Dachstein" (1965). This is an alpine (the last few metres over a short, wire-rope secured rocky section on foot to the summit), moderately difficult ski tour with beautiful, steep slopes in the upper section, followed by fantastic slopes in the loose larch forest, very long forest road sections further down and beautiful ski meadows (including a small ski lift) in the very last section back to the front door of the inn.

In addition to this standard variation (which in some places still has decades-old ski touring markings), there are also some extreme variations around the Hochhaide, which can be found in the book by Pichler/Pichler/Kolland: Ski Extrem Guide.

Stein am Mandl is a summit destination in its own right, whereby the lower forest road ascent is identical to the ascent to Hochhaide. The ascent continues via the Spitalalm and the north-east ridge to the summit (a short rock step on foot, bring skis for the descent!). In addition to the ascent route (very extensive selection of different slopes and gullies in the area of the Spitalalm), there is also a descent option via the north-west ridge (Rossboden) as well as various north-facing, steeper and direct gullies from the ridge above the Spitalalm.

Both destinations require safe conditions, especially for the steeper variations!

Another independent tour destination directly from Rottenmann (you can practically start from the railway station) is the Dürrenschöberl (1737m). The lower slopes are unfortunately exposed to the south. In the middle section there is a lot of forest, only further up you will find beautiful alpine slopes and sparse forests. I did this tour years ago with snowshoes, but I noticed a number of ski tracks and encountered ski tourers.

In addition to these "local mountains" of Rottenmann, there are numerous ski touring areas around the small town. The closest ones include Kaiserau (1130m), for example, where there is also a small ski area with two T-bar lifts. There you will find the Lahngangkogel (1778m), which despite its name is a perfect bad weather destination/alternate destination in the case of a tense avalanche situation. There are also beautiful, steeper variations in the forest on the north side, which have good powder for a long time. At Rottenmann you will also find the turn-off to Oppenberg (1052m), a small village in the middle of the Rottenmanner Tauern, which serves as the starting point for at least a dozen tours of varying degrees of difficulty and exposure.

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Trieben

About 15 kilometres up the valley from Rottenmann towards the Schober Pass (849m) lies the small industrial town of Trieben (3344 inhabitants). Trieben can also look back on a rich and long history, with the first documented mentioning dating back to 1130. However, Trieben's dominant landmark is of more modern origin and dates back to 1975: the striking central chimney ("Langer Ernst") of RHI AG (formerly Veitscher Magnesitwerke). The magnesite mined in Hohentauern was processed here until the early 1990s. Today, refractory bricks are produced for industry. Another large and important industrial company produces fittings for doors and windows. But also in Trieben we are more interested in the skiing possibilities, we are looking for powder and not a job. 

Unlike in Rottenmann, there are no ski in/ski out facilities in Trieben. The majority of the extensive tour options can only be reached by car or taxi. But first, let's take a look at the small "Moscher" alpine ski area up in Hohentauern. Four T-bar lifts between 1200 and 1800 metres provide surprisingly varied pistes, there is a dedicated ungroomed variation and - to a limited extent - freeride opportunities in the north-facing steep forest below the summit lift. In bad weather and poor visibility, Trieben therefore offers rewarding options.

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The surrounding touring areas are very extensive and each one is worth the journey! Let's start with the touring area around Hohentauern (1274m), the small, former mining village right at the top of the pass. The number one proud ski mountain here - until well into late spring - is the large Bösenstein (2448m). The main route from the Edelrautehütte (1706m, car access on toll road up to approx. 1680m) is also reasonable for the general public, a demanding steeper variation is the "red gully" (up to almost 40 degrees). However, it is still within the "normal" range. The north gully, on the other hand, is another story and is consequently also described as an "extreme descent" in the aforementioned "extreme book".

The other tours around Hohentauern are also categorised as easy to medium. The Bruderkogel (2299m) with its wide, immaculate white flanks is famous. The northern descent from the neighbouring Schüttnerkogel (2170m) through the Gamskar, on the other hand, is an insider tip and a powder dream in the right conditions.

However, the main ski area in Trieben is the Triebental, a small side valley that branches off just below the top of the pass and leads us directly south to the main Alpine ridge. This small valley has it all when it comes to the number and variety (from very easy to difficult) of touring options.

At the very end of the valley, the Almgasthof Bergerhube (1198m) even has the necessary infrastructure (restaurant, accommodation) for ski in/ski out. Unfortunately, the Gasthaus Braun in the front part of the valley with its own ski touring area has now closed. It is difficult to pick out individual tours from the extensive programme. We will therefore only mention the Triebenkogel (2055) with easy tours, the Kerschkern (2226m) with medium-difficulty tours and the visually dominant Gamskögel (2386m) with its extremely famous north gullies ("Direkte", "Prinzessinnenrinne").

The third ski touring area from Trieben is the Liesing, accessible via a narrow mountain road that branches off to the south behind the Schober Pass. The public car park is located at approx. 1040m. From here you can reach a number of destinations with slopes of different exposures, such as the Gr. Schober (1895m) (south-facing) or the Griesmoarkogel (2003m) (north-east-facing). The former Gasthaus Beisteiner is unfortunately no longer in operation (or only as a mountain farm).

The fourth touring area is the area around the forest at the Schoberpass, from where some of the well-known “Gesäuse” destinations (e.g. Leobner, 2036m) can also be climbed from the south.

In addition to the Hohentauern alpine ski area, the Kaiserau - the road branches off directly in Trieben - with its two T-bar lifts and the possibility of touring to the Lahngangkogel offers an alternative option in bad weather.

Conclusion

The small towns and areas presented here are far removed from mass tourism. It is often not so easy to find places to stay overnight. When we visited Rottenmann last year at the beginning of March, we were initially the only guests at the small Gasthaus Stadtwald. Later on, the place filled up as workers on assembly checked in. It was pretty lonely on our tours. In the end, however, we met at least one other tourer on every tour. In the afternoon, we usually met up again at the Inn for refreshments. The ski world ticks differently here - except at weekends, when skiers also come from outside Graz - there is no ski tourism in the true sense of the word. This exclusivity is bought with tour destinations that only a few people outside the region know about. If you are looking for solitude, fun in the powder and perhaps a challenge on the mountain instead of well-known summits, you will find what you are looking for in Styria!

Interesting links for more information: 

Book tip: Ski Extreme Guide

Ski Extreme Guide

Gasthaus zum Stadtwald

Triebenerhof

Bergerhube

Ski-Hohentauern

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This article has been automatically translated by DeepL with subsequent editing. If you notice any spelling or grammatical errors or if the translation has lost its meaning, please write an e-mail to the editors.

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