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SpotCheck | Courmayeur

On the way on the quieter south side of Mont Blanc

by German Wehinger 11/27/2016
During this spot check, we painfully learned what Mark Twain once said: forecasts are difficult, especially when they concern the future. Various platforms were virtually overflowing with predictions for an imminent dump in the Western Alps. Well then, bag and baggage in the van and off we go.

The opportunity is favorable to tackle the plan we had already cherished, a trip to Courmayeur, and the weather forecast is also hopeful, so we set off to the west. We can already see Mont Blanc from afar and when we see the first skiers in full alpine gear walking along the road in Chamonix, we can hardly wait. We briefly catch sight of the impressive glacier formations, then the Mont Blanc tunnel swallows us up and spits us out again just as quickly on the south-eastern side of its namesake.

In the shadow of 4000-metre peaks, at the foot of the mighty Mont Blanc massif, in a thoroughly wild landscape, the small, cosy mountaineering village of Courmayeur awaits us. The village lies at the end of the Aosta Valley at an altitude of around 1200 m and serves as a starting point for all kinds of activities for both mountaineers and piste adventurers. You can't deny that there is also a hint of St. Moritz. The Courmayeur Mont Blanc Funivie ski resort is located on the opposite side of the valley and opens up the slopes between Val Veny and Mont Chetif, at altitudes between 1200 and 2755 meters. From Punta Helbronner (3462 m), which can be reached via the Skyway gondola, descents of more than 2000 vertical meters are possible!

Despite the forecasts, the promised snow does not come in the expected quantities and we also get to know the area in modest visibility. However, we don't let this spoil our mood and enjoy the incredible tree skiing on offer. Between the Plan de la Gabba and Bertolini chairlifts, on the side of the ski resort facing Val Veny, there are numerous variations. Here you can let off steam and even after half a day we still find untouched spots. There is something for everyone, steep and moderate passages alternate, and we can make our first powder turns directly to the left and right of the chairlift. Between the mountain station of the Val Veny cable car and the Peindeint lift, there are various steeper gullies through the forest down into Val Veny. The river Dora leads us back to the cable car. However, these treeruns only become really fun when there's an alarming amount of fresh snow!

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The next day, we unfortunately only receive 10 cm of the predicted 30 cm of fresh snow. However, it is now breaking up in phases. Due to the poor visibility of the previous days, some variations have not yet been skied. We head for the Dolonne Valley, which borders the ski resort directly to the south and has a lot to offer. One of the rewarding variations, called Le Greye, is easy to reach via the cable car of the same name. From the mountain station, you ski down the valley to the east. The first, wide section of the descent ends in a very steep gully before the valley opens up again and invites you to cruise down. All descents in the Canale di Dolonne end at the valley descent to the Dolonne gondola. A more challenging option is Arp - Dolonne. The nostalgic Youla and Arp cable cars take you to the mountain station at 2755 m above sea level. From there, head east over the Col D'Arp towards Courmayeur. In the wide basin, we find the last remnants of powder here and there and enjoy them with every turn before heading north over the Arp Damon to the northern flank of the Dolonne. Extremely steep gullies and slopes await us here, but we were not the first today.

Rewarding descents can be found beyond the Youlaz Pass, even if the area cannot be described as an insider tip. One positive effect of the rather limited transport capacity of the gondola is that the easily accessible terrain is nevertheless tracked relatively slowly. Once you have reached the Col de la Youlaz to the west from the Arp mountain station, you cross to the left into the huge flank and can enjoy the powder snow of the past few days on the north-facing slopes. From the foot of the col, there are now several possible descents, limited only by a protected area to the east. We choose the option through the Canale dei Vesses di Sinistra and are rewarded with first tracks!

Conclusion

Several days in Courmayeur give us an idea of the potential for freeride adventures here: From simple undertakings to alpine challenges, everything is possible. We say goodbye not only to the ski resort, but also to the place with its very personal flair, good espresso in the ski huts and cozy get-togethers with pizza and red wine in the evening. It certainly wasn't the last time we were here, because Courmayeur is definitely one of our top favorites among the ski resorts.

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This article has been automatically translated by DeepL with subsequent editing. If you notice any spelling or grammatical errors or if the translation has lost its meaning, please write an e-mail to the editors.

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