Gear Review | Mammut Eigerjoch Advanced IN Hooded Jacket

When I'm ice climbing, when my belaystation is once again under an icy cold shower, I sometimes think about buying a synthetic fibre jacket. However, I don't indulge in this hobby often enough to make an extra jacket worthwhile and synthetic fibres take up more space in my backpack than their biological relatives, down. With the "Eigerjoch Advanced IN" Mammut promises to achieve precisely this balancing act. Impregnated down from species-appropriate animal treatment on the sensitive parts of the body for good thermal performance and a small pack size. Combined with a high-quality Primaloft synthetic fibre filling in areas that are particularly exposed to moisture. Can the jacket really fulfil these high demands?

Weight and pack size

Mammut gives the weight for the XXL size as 405g. So I removed the flour from the last cake baking session from the kitchen scales and checked: 381g on the digital display, so the weight is well within the tolerance range. While we're on the subject of baking cakes - the jacket, which can be stored in its own side pocket, is about the size of a 1kg packet of flour. So not quite as small and light as a pure down jacket, but definitely small enough to always have it with you.

Unfortunately, I have not yet been able to use the jacket for ice climbing this winter. However, the synthetic fibre insulation on the back has proven surprisingly effective on ski tours.

Test report

Even when the backpack is taken off after a strenuous ascent, the insulation keeps the back warmer when damp than comparable pure down jackets. Otherwise, the insulation performance is really excellent and I haven't had a warmer jacket in this weight class so far. The jacket is so cosy that I also like to wear it in everyday life. The only thing that bothers me here is that the high pockets are not so comfortable to use as hand warmers, as the forearm has to be bent relatively tightly. However, there is no other design option, as otherwise the pockets would no longer be accessible when the climbing harness is fastened. The pack size is certainly a little bulkier than that of a pure down jacket, but the combination of both insulation materials has some technical advantages. The slightly tighter cut gives the jacket a fashionable look for everyday wear.

Conclusion

Thanks to details such as harness compatibility, adjustable hood etc., the jacket is particularly suitable as an all-round alpine jacket. When ice climbing or on high alpine tours, the mix of materials is very convincing. The disadvantage of the slightly larger pack size is noticeable on ski tours, but due to the low weight there is always a place in the backpack.

Advantages & disadvantages

++ High insulation performance

+ Suitable for climbing harnesses and backpack straps

- Pack size

Information on

RRP € 400,-

-  One-hand adjustable hem drawstring with cord that can be stowed inside

-  Extremely lightweight, water-repellent Pertex® Quantum material with Diamond Fuse technology for outstanding abrasion resistance

-  Elasticated cuffs

-  YKK Vislon® 2-way zip for ease of movement

-  Inner breast pocket with zip

-  Filled with 90 g 90/10 goose down with 850 cuin fill power

-  2 climbing harness-compatible front pockets with zip

-  Helmet-compatible, adjustable hood with reinforced peak

-  Low packing volume: jacket can be stowed in the right front pocket

-Primaloft Gold Active® inserts (80 g/m2) on shoulders, hood, back and sleeve ends for warmth even in damp conditions

Here is the link to the Mammut website with further information. 

The jacket was provided to PowderGuide by the manufacturer free of charge for testing. Find out how we tested it in our test statement.