Chamonix | First ascent of Ligne Bruchez-Lafaille

Vivian Bruchez: From European Cup to steep face rider

Vivian Bruchez, born in 1986 in Chamonix Mont-Blanc, is an extreme skier and alpinist. He began his career as a teenager in alpine racing, skiing slalom and giant slalom in the Fis and European Cups, later switching to ski cross and freeriding. He completed his training as a mountain guide at the world-famous ENSA (École National de Ski et d'Alpinism) in Chamonix. He is also a youth coach at the Argentière ski club.

His love of skiing and his enthusiasm for the mountains gave rise to his fascination with steep faces. It is therefore not surprising that he soon set out in search of new and unclimbed routes in the highly frequented Mont Blanc massif! Between 2012 and 2016, he managed 20 first ascents in just 4 years. In addition to his endeavours in his home Mont Blanc massif, Bruchez also takes part in international expeditions. He is planning another project in the Himalayas for next autumn.

His most important descents include:

Descent via the Éperon Migot du Aiguille du Chardonnet (3844m). Together with Kilian Jornet, 2012.
Descent via Arete Kuffner from Mont Maudit (4465m). Together with Sébastien Montaz Rosset, 2013.
Descent via the west face of Mont Blanc (4808m) with subsequent ascent of the Aiguille du Bionassay (4052m) and subsequent descent via its north face. Together with Bastien Fleury, 2013.
Descent via the north face of the Aiguille Blanche de Peuterey (4112m). Together with Tom Lafaille, Boris Langenstein, Tiphaine Duperier and Guillaume Pierrel, 2020

First ascent of the Aiguille du Goûter

The new route via the north face of the Aiguille du Goûter (3862m), which had been discussed with Vivian's cousin for some time and had already been attempted last spring together with Léo Slemett, was in good condition on Monday 1st of March that allowed another attempt to be made. The route was named "Bruchez - Lafaille - Line" after the two first climbers Vivian Bruchez and Tom Lafaille.

Vivian Bruchez and Tom Lafaille left Les Houches at 6am. They reached the summit of the Aiguille du Goûter at 1pm and then set off on the 4-hour descent, which covers a difference in altitude of 2,800 metres and first leads over the north-east face and then into the north-west couloir.

The first part of the route leads over the Glacier du Taconnaz against an impressive backdrop of seracs and crevasses. According to Bruchez, the main challenge was to find the entrance to the couloir:

"I tried to understand the approach, which is not easy in such a large wall, especially as you can't afford to make a mistake."

The new route seen from the valley.

Jan Imberi

They therefore descended along the spur of the north face to the presumed height of the entrance. Tom belayed Vivian, who abseiled down to find the entrance to the couloir. After a subsequent 20m descent and a further 60m abseil through loose rock, they were finally able to descend.

"It's one of those descents where your legs seem soft and fragile on the first turn, that's how intimidating this place is. I felt the same on the summit of Nant Blanc and Blanche de Peuterey," says Vivian.

On the descent, the duo was always careful to minimise their exposure. Sheltered under rocks and offset to the axis of the couloir to avoid falling rocks or ice, they skied down to the Glacier du Bourgeat and then on to Les Houches. Vivian summarises the experience as follows:

"I think this descent is unprecedented, it is the fruit of years of experience and local reconnaissance that have enabled us to find this route into the valley. I had no information about the overall route beforehand. Fortunately, friends from Tecrew and the team from TV Mountain had travelled the upper part of the Glacier du Taconnaz a few days before and opened up a couloir further down from the ridge. This was important information for us and I would like to thank them for it. Steep skiing is about passion, patience, respect and humility."

Text Vivian Bruchez, Fanità Translation from French: Jan Imberi