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Life after survival

What happens after the worst case?

by Kevin Hjertaas 03/13/2022
We know that things sometimes go wrong on the mountain. We prepare for accidents by attending courses, practicing rescue techniques and having the right equipment with us. But how do you prepare for what comes after the accident?

This article was originally published in English by Crowfoot Media. We have translated and slightly adapted the text in consultation with Kevin Hjertaas and Meghan Ward. Kevin was involved in an avalanche accident in 2020 in which one person died, which he refers to here. In this text, together with author Meghan, he talks about life afterwards and incorporates advice from a trauma psychologist into his personal story. Content warning: This article is about traumatic avalanche accidents and suicidal thoughts, among other things.

Avalanche blasting is a great job that I was able to do for a few years with a great crew. The work was hard, but we mostly enjoyed it, even though we were aware of the danger. When we had to blast near the lifts, a colleague often joked that he would drive to the parking lot, jump in his car and run off to Mexico "in case everything went really wrong". It was meant as a joke to take some of the tension out of the stressful situation. I don't think it was ever a real plan.

Never the less, Mexico kept popping up in the back of my mind when everything went wrong for me. I was on a ski tour with a friend and his partner. We triggered an avalanche. Our friend was buried deep under it. We tried to rescue her for over an hour. The trained automatisms worked - avalanche beacon search, probing, shoveling, emergency call. We worked. Years of training make you efficient. We were focused and fast on the outside, desperate on the inside.

You can practise reacting correctly in an emergency. With enough training, you'll be able to do it even in extremely stressful situations. We couldn't save our friend's life, but we were closer than we would have been without the emergency plan we had practiced many times.

The Mexico idea, on the other hand, seemed completely useless.

When I think back on it now, months later, I have the impression that my subconscious jumped to the next problem in the chaos of the moment. It went through the list of saved emergency plans and already knew that I would need a new plan in the valley. The old joke about escaping to Mexico was the only thing under "in case it all goes really wrong".

A plan for afterwards

As a mountaineer, you read a lot of obituaries and articles about the lives and deaths of those who die in the mountains. In mountain accidents, people are taken from us from one moment to the next. There is no time to prepare or say goodbye. Our friends leave in the morning and never come home. If you choose this kind of life, you are likely to face tragedy at some point. Maybe the loss stays at arm's length, maybe one day it hits you right in the heart. We prepare for the worst case, but we hardly think about what comes after the worst case.

Janet McLeod works as a psychologist in Canmore, Canada, and specializes in trauma recovery for people who deal professionally with tragedies on the mountain. McLeod recommends seeking professional help as soon as possible after a traumatic incident, otherwise the trauma becomes ingrained and it may be difficult to get rid of it. Shortly after an accident, many people don't feel that they need help. It makes sense to make a promise to yourself beforehand that you will seek help, says McLeod. She suggests including therapeutic support as another checkbox in your personal emergency plan, as an item to be checked off. "This tactic can seem radical because our culture places a high value on dealing with everything ourselves," says McLeod.

When an incident changes our lives, panic and anxiety drive us to take action - the actionism is sometimes dramatic. McLeod warns: "Slow down! We shouldn't try to move on too quickly. Wanting to fix everything quickly is a survival reflex, but such problems can't be solved in a hurry." For a while, we can get by on adrenaline after an accident, but at some point that's no longer possible. And then comes the crash.

McLeod has already experienced these mechanisms first-hand. In 2002, she was involved in a pile-up. Cars flew through the area, glass shattered around her. There were several fatalities. But immediately after the accident, she was so happy to be alive, so psyched up by the massive dose of adrenaline, that nothing hurt her and she announced to her colleagues that she would of course be back at work after the weekend. Then on Monday she was in a lot of pain and had suicidal thoughts.

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Knowing what's coming

Depression, substance abuse, destructive behavior and suicidal thoughts are not uncommon after traumatic events. Mental illnesses are socially stigmatized, but they don't get better if you ignore them. "Suicide risk increases after traumatic experiences," according to the Canadian Centre for Suicide Prevention. This also applies to the trauma we experience in mountain accidents.

Survivors generally find it helpful to talk about what they have experienced. Knowing that others have gone through and survived something similar often helps. Just like physical injuries, mental and emotional injuries can also heal, even if it seems impossible at first. As with physical injuries, seeking help after an accident is important.

However, there are also ways to prepare yourself. Just as targeted muscle-building training prevents physical injuries, we can also do something for our mental and emotional health beforehand to build up resilience to traumatic experiences. Exercise in nature, meditation techniques, social contacts and interpersonal relationships that can support us - all of these things are easier to build up before a crisis and all of them help during a crisis. It's not about being constantly afraid that something bad will happen, but about having a healthy relationship with the realities of mountaineering.

There are also very practical things you can do to prepare yourself: First and foremost, of course, are avalanche and first aid courses and regular training. Equipment and knowledge will help us if we are involved in a mountain accident. Next, we can ask ourselves: What happens if I injure myself? Can I do my job with a broken leg? Am I insured well enough to cover loss of earnings? This type of prevention also makes sense for mental and emotional injuries. Will the insurance cover therapy costs? Do I have a financial cushion that allows me to take some time off work if necessary?

Barry Blanchard is a mountain guide legend in Canada. Over the course of his career, he has seen the mountains at their best and their worst. An entire generation of Canadian mountain guides is following in his footsteps on the mountain. Perhaps we can do the same in the valley: "You have to fundamentally understand that mountains are dangerous. Period. Even a hike has an element of risk. If you know that tragic accidents can happen, at least it's no longer completely unexpected," says Blanchard.

Of course, when we talk about the mountains, it's mostly about the positive experiences. Blanchard believes that the media emphasizes this side too much. "The sun is always shining, we only see smiling faces. But that's such a small part of our lives." He describes life as a mountain with a sunny side and one that lies in the shadows. "Most of human life takes place in the gray twilight, but there are very bright, sunny moments and dark, heartbreaking ones." Those who recognize this are in a better position to find their way out of the shadows.

Help in the community

Trauma psychologist McLeod says that mountain tragedies affect the entire social fabric of a community. I know from experience: she's right. A single accident often has a wide impact. It hits the survivors, family and friends particularly hard. Less visible are the witnesses and first responders, the mountain rescue volunteers and the hospital staff. But the accident also affects them and those around them. Sometimes we feel the ripples, even if we are not directly affected.

So if accidents mean communal trauma, how can we help each other? The survivor experience is always different, but support starts with reaching out. For me, every sympathetic message, every message of condolence was like a stab in the heart, but everyone together sustained me. When a herd of animals is threatened, some species form a circle around the most vulnerable members of the herd. That's what it felt like for me.

McLeod emphasizes: "One person alone can't deal with something like this. This is a community event." We tend to avoid accident victims or mourners. Perhaps we want to give them space and, according to McLeod, they often want to be alone themselves for the time being. But: "You feel very isolated after such an experience. You have to fight against that. You can't do it alone. We can spread the traumatic stories across the community so that everyone carries a little bit". So: write the message, send the card, bake the cake. It may feel strange or awkward, but it's all better than saying nothing.

Mexico

I didn't run off to Mexico to hide from what I had experienced. But two months after the accident, I went there with my wife and our daughter. We spent a week together on the beach and went surfing, far away from the mountains. It was a chance for us to get away from it all together. Friends made the trip possible, which really touched us. We felt that was a great support.

For me, the small gestures from friends and colleagues were the most helpful, but talk therapy was also very important for me after the accident. Cycling, or simply spending time in nature, also helps me a lot.

Our community in the mountains is not large, but we are very close-knit. Maybe that outweighs the risks we face in the mountains. In any case, we can help each other through a lot if we stick together.

Epilogue

The list of mountain tragedies is getting longer, in the Canadian Rockies and elsewhere. In summer, there were fatal falls and deaths from falling rocks. At the Athabasca Glacier, a tourist bus slid off the narrow access road. Most of us will hopefully never be confronted with such mass accidents (3 deaths, 24 injured), but the incident put a kind of exclamation mark behind the discussion on the scene.

Mountain guide Mike Trehearne was one of the first on the scene of the accident. Afterwards, he contacted colleagues early on to talk about the emotional aftermath. "You need calm and a sense of security to address the parasympathetic nervous system," explains Trehearne. In an emergency situation, the body is in survival mode and the sympathetic nervous system is in control. Many people who have problems after a traumatic situation can't get out of this state.

Trehearne knows from experience that they don't survive this for long. "The brain forms new connections and makes it worse," says Trehearne. "That's why professional help is so important".

Mountain guide legend Blanchard writes in the last sentence of his autobiography, The Calling: A Life Rocked by Mountains: "A dark lake of sadness underlies human life and we skate on thin ice. Most of us break through at some point and it is solely human hands that bring us back to the surface. Hopefully, we bring truth back with us, and share it."

(Roughly: "A dark lake of sadness underlies human life and we skate on thin ice. Most of us break in at some point and it is only the hands of others that pull us back to the surface. Hopefully we bring truth up with us, and share it.")

Kevin now works with Janet McLeod and others at "Mountain Musk Ox" to provide organized, therapeutic and other support after traumatic mountain accidents - from the community for the community. In this country, some of the Alpine clubs offer similar programs (especially for AV tour guides), and in Austria increasingly within the mountain rescue service for rescuers. Mountain sports-specific, generally accessible offers are rare. First points of contact in emergencies are, for example, the telephone helpline or the Red Cross.

This article has been automatically translated by DeepL with subsequent editing. If you notice any spelling or grammatical errors or if the translation has lost its meaning, please write an e-mail to the editors.

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